Incredibly surprised with Chaiken, I find myself wondering how a collection could possibly appear on the runway without direction or relevance.
Movement. This line is about movement, comfort, and sensuality through fabric and construction; leaving style and elegance to fend for themselves. The line was dull and uninspired, although it did accomplish it's goals. Sadly, not mine.
The collection had no momentum. It didn't carry a symbolic meaning nor did it have a perspective. First off, the feel is tough and masculine while maintaining a complete lack of futurism or structure in the garments. Disregarding current trends is a risky business and can be pulled off- by someone who has vision.
Jumping from cowboy counterparts to pre-teen cluelessness, I found a common link: Hollywood flamboyance. Clashing fabrics and the emotions evoked by them (silk with sensuality and sophistication, wicker fedoras with Mexico and hard labor) is a nod to the tawdry aspect of Hollywood. In order for this collection to work, commitment to the perspective is imperative. Julie Chaiken took no measures to do so, and the collection is lacking because of it.
All in all, a disappointment.
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