Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Marc Jacobs Fall 2007 Ready To Wear


Marc Jacobs' Fall 2007 Ready-To-Wear collection is a feat upon itself. Remaining one of the only collections this season to inflate cleanliness and tailored mystery, the line is unique and fresh. As Russel Simmons confides with his ever-present eloquence, "Marc is always dope." The line is characterized by bold lines, primary colors, and geometric patterns. When described, the collection seems a trifling throwback to the 1960's, although the wide-brimmed hats and knee-length trenches beg to differ. Marc Jacobs' ability to pull sophistication and relevance from countless genre's of fashion is astonishing, threading symbolism through each piece without jeopardizing the wear ability of the line.
The collection represents two aspects of war. Loneliness associated with battle is the first theme. Inspiration for the pieces was a scarcity of connection, loneliness being a symptom. The gauzy, transparent androgyny represents lack of gender and the associated identifications; bringing personality through lack of dignity. Any sign of femininity (such as bows and ruffles) were over starched and gave the impression of purpose as opposed to frivolity. The theatrical versus anti-glory aspects of war is the second symbol. Popping from a simplistic monotone to cabaret-esque sequins, the common thread was theme. The masculine movement and lack of shine in the first ten pieces represented a grounded soldier, prepared for the consequences. The models appeared solemn and slightly bored, as opposed to the alternative voice: panache and drama.
Marc Jacobs molded a whimsical collection with a black and white mentality.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2007



Balenciaga's fall winter collection is an ornate display of multi-cultural ism and masculinity. The robotic movement of the models (due to platform stilettos) only intensified the harsh, boxy cuts. Applying layer upon layer of intricacy, the collection was pieced together in surprisingly subdued showman ship, accentuating a sleek wear ability.



Symbolism for the collection requires patience to uncover. Yet, there it was, glaring at me from an icy brow. The line equates to the corruption of education. The shapes, scarves, makeup, movement, etc act as evidence. The androgyny and absent variation of the first twenty pieces is a throwback to the infamous uniform many elementary schools, including mine, forced the students to wear. A strenuous education has negative side effects, side effects personified within the line. The makeup and movement of the models signifies a uniformity and absence of creativity, a school that churns out cultured students on a leash vastly more uncomfortable than the pictured shoes.
Balenciaga created fresh and unseen shapes through masculinity and Scandinavian prints.




Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Chris Kane Creates Visual Pollution with Fall 2007 Collection




Chris Kane is one of the few designers who can lackadaisically shovel tasteless garments onto the runway with an essence of style and appeal. His spring collection was an appalling, prostitute-esque, neon lycra mess- yet it worked due to the challenge it presented to the wearer.

His fall collection fails to reach it's predecessor's status. Opting for a minimal, organic approach to the futuristic trend; Chris Kane ignored construction and sophistication- desperately attempting elegance and failing. Clunky, ill-fitting garments were the result.

Symbolism for the collection is quite different from the other lines, although it still caters to the same topic: science. The spider-esque silhouettes and organic intricacy of the numerous jackets speak to the need for a "green planet"- less dependence on harmful dangers and more on healthy, natural alternatives. The meaning is apparent when comparing the collection to others relying on the use of synthetic, artificial shapes and fabrics (Dolce & Gabbana comes to mind).

Chris Kane's lack of knowledge pertaining to textiles is manifested in this line. Many of the pieces combined skin-tight, velour leggings and cropped, leather jackets. Blood red and burnt orange were also used consistently throughout the line, sometimes within the same pieces. In my opinion, a waste of fabric.

An interesting fashion tidbit: belted, denim jackets. Trying this about six months ago, I felt strange, out of place, bizarre, and downright tacky. Possibly it was the wide-belt, maybe something more, but Chris Kane used this idea in his line. I do not recommend it, but the draw towards the tawdry ideal still exists within me.

Chris Kane created visual pollution in this collection, poorly constructing and combining a mirage of organic science.