Fashion and the Media

Why is this hideous Balengiaga dress/chunky coat combination so exceedingly popular? Has the public finally gathered their courage and formed their own massively similar opinion? No. As with numerous alternative fashion trends, Anna Wintour has set her decision in stone: absolute love.

How can fashion, an entity so personal and extreme, become media-controlled? Those who are "fashionable" and those who remain slightly lesser are determined through trend and basic knowledge as opposed to actual talent.

Humans are purely consumers to the savvy business mogul. Why demand individuality and basic human rights when one is yielding to the ideal of spend as much as one can bestow (also known as elitist)?

Deeply saddened by the flaw of the Homo Erectus (the need to belong, the need to be loved, the need for companionship) and the media's manipulation of those traits, I am steadfast in my decision to remain somewhat distinctive.

Fashion is mentality, it is emotion, it is creation. Letting business interrupt the unique aspects of your character will only increase corruption within creativity.

L

Alexander McQueen Gown

Allo Allo!

I had to stop by and doll up this blog with a lovely McQueen gown. I do not really know the origin, but I do remember owning a beautiful little (well, rather cinched at some quadrants, foofed at others as opposed to little) dress such as this one. My housekeeper gave me an old-fashioned Barbie, that wore a dress quite like this although less dramatic. I love his ability to take an overdone, feminine silhouette, and create a fierce and streamlined masterpiece.

Toodles,

L

Marc Jacobs Fall 2007 Ready To Wear

Marc Jacobs' Fall 2007 Ready-To-Wear collection is a feat upon itself. Remaining one of the only collections this season to inflate cleanliness and tailored mystery, the line is unique and fresh. As Russel Simmons confides with his ever-present eloquence, "Marc is always dope." The line is characterized by bold lines, primary colors, and geometric patterns. When described, the collection seems a trifling throwback to the 1960's, although the wide-brimmed hats and knee-length trenches beg to differ. Marc Jacobs' ability to pull sophistication and relevance from countless genre's of fashion is astonishing, threading symbolism through each piece without jeopardizing the wear ability of the line.

The collection represents two aspects of war. Loneliness associated with battle is the first theme. Inspiration for the pieces was a scarcity of connection, loneliness being a symptom. The gauzy, transparent androgyny represents lack of gender and the associated identifications; bringing personality through lack of dignity. Any sign of femininity (such as bows and ruffles) were over starched and gave the impression of purpose as opposed to frivolity. The theatrical versus anti-glory aspects of war is the second symbol. Popping from a simplistic monotone to cabaret-esque sequins, the common thread was theme. The masculine movement and lack of shine in the first ten pieces represented a grounded soldier, prepared for the consequences. The models appeared solemn and slightly bored, as opposed to the alternative voice: panache and drama.

Marc Jacobs molded a whimsical collection with a black and white mentality.

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2007

Balenciaga's fall winter collection is an ornate display of multi-cultural ism and masculinity. The robotic movement of the models (due to platform stilettos) only intensified the harsh, boxy cuts. Applying layer upon layer of intricacy, the collection was pieced together in surprisingly subdued showman ship, accentuating a sleek wear ability.

Symbolism for the collection requires patience to uncover. Yet, there it was, glaring at me from an icy brow. The line equates to the corruption of education. The shapes, scarves, makeup, movement, etc act as evidence. The androgyny and absent variation of the first twenty pieces is a throwback to the infamous uniform many elementary schools, including mine, forced the students to wear. A strenuous education has negative side effects, side effects personified within the line. The makeup and movement of the models signifies a uniformity and absence of creativity, a school that churns out cultured students on a leash vastly more uncomfortable than the pictured shoes.

Balenciaga created fresh and unseen shapes through masculinity and Scandinavian prints.

Chris Kane Creates Visual Pollution with Fall 2007 Collection

Chris Kane is one of the few designers who can lackadaisically shovel tasteless garments onto the runway with an essence of style and appeal. His spring collection was an appalling, prostitute-esque, neon lycra mess- yet it worked due to the challenge it presented to the wearer.

His fall collection fails to reach it's predecessor's status. Opting for a minimal, organic approach to the futuristic trend; Chris Kane ignored construction and sophistication- desperately attempting elegance and failing. Clunky, ill-fitting garments were the result.

Symbolism for the collection is quite different from the other lines, although it still caters to the same topic: science. The spider-esque silhouettes and organic intricacy of the numerous jackets speak to the need for a "green planet"- less dependence on harmful dangers and more on healthy, natural alternatives. The meaning is apparent when comparing the collection to others relying on the use of synthetic, artificial shapes and fabrics (Dolce & Gabbana comes to mind).

Chris Kane's lack of knowledge pertaining to textiles is manifested in this line. Many of the pieces combined skin-tight, velour leggings and cropped, leather jackets. Blood red and burnt orange were also used consistently throughout the line, sometimes within the same pieces. In my opinion, a waste of fabric.

An interesting fashion tidbit: belted, denim jackets. Trying this about six months ago, I felt strange, out of place, bizarre, and downright tacky. Possibly it was the wide-belt, maybe something more, but Chris Kane used this idea in his line. I do not recommend it, but the draw towards the tawdry ideal still exists within me.

Chris Kane created visual pollution in this collection, poorly constructing and combining a mirage of organic science.

Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2007

Not thrilled but satiated with the line, I found the collection energy-less and lacking. Putting extreme emphasis on construction, Bottega Veneta captures the feel of minimalist resort wear. With slight whiskers of 1940's shapes, the collection began with nautical ropes and materials- a throwback to the glamorous cruises of the 40s and 50s. As the line progressed, I found a common link between the flowing princess-esque wench gowns and the stunningly barren resort wear.

Though somewhat of a stretch, Disney Land is a prevalent theme. From Cinderella-inspired gowns to the summering throngs throwing money into the entertainment empire, the collection reflects summer escapes into the world of childhood. Fascinatingly unfeminine and laid back, the collection maintains an air of theme-park sophistication without the glitz.

Each piece bearing resemblance to an elaborate grocery bag, the clothing is still worth exploring. The line acts as sweet and sublime accent pieces to the overblown and pompous futurism dispatched in certain runway shows. All in all, Bottega Veneta took no risks and produced safe and unoriginal pieces.

Gucci Spring Summer 2007

In print, the color scheme of this collection sounds hideous and frightening: black, white, scarlet, and plum; but when dashed across countless silhouettes, the reality is quite different. The use of color and clash within the line awakens the long dormant pallet. It works due to structure and lines within the pieces. Though color remains to be the most visible thread through each piece, I have found other viewpoints. Many of these pertain to science.

The overall symbol of the collection is evolution. The first aspect of this theme is genetic variation. Within all species, differing trait combinations exist or variations within the same gene pool. The clothing in the collection appears to be differing combinations of the same color scheme and basic feel. Though the collection evolves, there is little change from piece to piece. The likeness of texture and drama creates a wearable industrial collection- a throwback to 60's mod.

The second aspect of this theme is the evolution of society and the morals associated with it. The first piece is a mid-thigh length black trench coat with red and plum trim, also known as extreme structure. The line maintains this architecture until midway through the collection. By the finale, the pieces reach a sweeping and dramatic lack of structure (pictured above) with remnants of what used to be (used with color on the above gown). Structure and order are not easily maintained, and when let to their own devices, will deteriorate. Safety is associated with structure and specifics while creativity and artistry with a lack of form. The collection moves from touchable to something intangible: a mentality. In a way, the line is associated with politics, although I see left wing and right wing politics very black and white. Possibly the collection is about the deterioration of the government as whole instead of certain workings from within.

The Gucci Spring Summer 2007 collection is a fascinating take on the ever growing trend, incorporating a mod-chic take on industrial shapes. Bravo!

Biology of Beauty & Psychology of Fashion

Beauty is effected by biology, ideals from history, the media, and our own perceptions. It is imperative, for the betterment of society, to mate with fertile and healthy human beings. Signs of health are smooth skin, luscious hair, symmetry, perfect teeth, youth, and curves. Curves (hips and breasts) are secondary sex characteristics (which appear during puberty) and are considered a reproductive strategy, a way to "present" yourself to your mate. Fashion is a means to achieve this desire, accentuating certain areas or bearing skin in the hopes of finding the quintessential mate.

Money is also a factor. During the pre-1700 era, obesity was considered the ideal. Those with money could afford food, but for others hunting was a necessity. Those with wealth consumed more calories than they burned; whereas nowadays, the current trend is shockingly skinny. People with money have more leisure time, thus more time to exercise. Dieting is also popular among the upper-class because they can afford the fifty dollar steak versus the one dollar hamburger.

The ideals from history are documented through fine art (the study of beauty through fine art is also called aesthetics). Numerous times, one artist's idea of beauty was transformed into the cultural ideal (Botticelli's women are a fabulous examples). The steady evolution of traits considered attractive is blatant and easily identifiable. Knowing that society is still engulfed in this progression fascinates me.

The media plays a massive role in beauty. Their objectives are not culture-oriented. They are selfish and a means to make a profit. The media conditions society, almost like hypnotism, in order to achieve their desires: an ever-growing source of money. The novel Brave New World explores the depth of this concept through a Utopian society based on maintaining a never ending source of profit through brainwashing techniques.

In order to achieve sophistication through emotional dressing, one must not break under the ideals of society. Yes, the media can act as a sort of twisted inspiration, but it can not be the only source of creativity. Do not let the media's view become your view. Your style will come from within and not from repeated attacks by outside sources.

Chaiken Spring/Summer 2007

Incredibly surprised with Chaiken, I find myself wondering how a collection could possibly appear on the runway without direction or relevance.

Movement. This line is about movement, comfort, and sensuality through fabric and construction; leaving style and elegance to fend for themselves. The line was dull and uninspired, although it did accomplish it's goals. Sadly, not mine.

The collection had no momentum. It didn't carry a symbolic meaning nor did it have a perspective. First off, the feel is tough and masculine while maintaining a complete lack of futurism or structure in the garments. Disregarding current trends is a risky business and can be pulled off- by someone who has vision.

Jumping from cowboy counterparts to pre-teen cluelessness, I found a common link: Hollywood flamboyance. Clashing fabrics and the emotions evoked by them (silk with sensuality and sophistication, wicker fedoras with Mexico and hard labor) is a nod to the tawdry aspect of Hollywood. In order for this collection to work, commitment to the perspective is imperative. Julie Chaiken took no measures to do so, and the collection is lacking because of it.

All in all, a disappointment.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2007

Combining futurism with sex-appeal, Dolce & Gabbana's Spring collection is a commentary on roles in society and their evolution.

The use of plastic and synthetic materials show the human's natural quest for perfection. The pieces themselves are not robotic, it is how the person must wear them in order to achieve the desired effect: confidence. D&G is playing with perception here.

Also, there is heavy use of the extreme. The line begins with skin-tight, plastic material leaving nothing to the imagination and ends with a flourish of metallic, swaths of yellow fabric, and the after taste of an egg in a frying pan.

The line maintains a masculine femininity (heavy on the sex-appeal), which brings up the topic of gender roles. The females are pictured in plastic or black leather corsets, and flouncy, receding hemlines. Is this a symbol of feminine power and endurance? Or the man's subliminal control over her? The corset represents the 1800's which represents female submission which represents male dominance. Male dominance equals the corset, but currently the corset symbolizes s&m (judging by the type of corsets pictured). S&M involves power play which can be traced back to unconventional gain in that direction. So, does the corset equal the female's future power in society, or lack thereof? I suppose the question has to be taken in the context of D&G's influences. Which are surprisingly enough, easy to decipher.

Stanley Kubrick's 2001 A Space Odyssey is clearly the inspiration. Beginning the men's fashion show, the famous monolith scene is reenacted through lighting and music. Also, the new ad campaigns include a plastic child within a glass box, surrounded by models. This is a nod to enlightenment pictured in the movie. Keep in mind, I have not seen it since I was ten so I seem to have forgotten many key parts. I do remember the lead (being male) defeated the robot space ship (signifying the female within this collection because of the aforementioned reasons). To me, it is clear. Females will loose their status and gain controlled freedom.

Dolce & Gabbana have taken a trend to the extreme with noticeable, applaudible panache.

Fashion On The Edge: An Overview

Fashion is something to be craved, desired, glorified, and brought back down to earth. It can compliment the depth of mood and boost feelings of confidence.

I see fashion as feeling seeped onto the skin manifested in clothing and collections as symbols begging to be unwrapped. Each piece a work of art, art that can be lived in and experienced like no other form can be.

There is no such thing as 'unfashionable', but there are the people who try and also the people who achieve. That is what sets them apart.

Fashion has been a friend of mine for years now, simply because it helps me retain more of what I have to offer, which is myself. I first discovered fashion when working in the theater. Costumes, makeup, hair... it was all a part of the final touches in creating a full character. I realized that if one dresses emotionally, they have less difficulty accepting their physical selves entirely.

That is where my love of fashion began.